Southern Laos: From Champasak to the Bolaven Plateau

This relatively unvisited region of Laos offers a great diversity of attractions. Travelers seeking insights into ancient history and culture will want to linger at the Khmer temple of Wat Phu. The Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) region will fascinate those with an interest in unique geology, colonial relics and current Lao rural lifestyle. The temperate Bolaven Plateau is home to a plethora of Mon-Khmer minorities, and offers superlative natural beauty, but still bears the scars of the Indochina War.

At the time of the French expedition up the Mekong in 1866, Champasak was known as Bassac. Prior to the establishment of Pakse by the colonial authorities in 1907, this now sleepy village served as the administrative center for the Champasak region, and the residence of Champasak's royal family when it was an independent kingdom. All that remains of this sumptuous past are two colonial era royal residences, located about 200 metres (650 miles) south of the now defunct fountain on the only paved street in town.

While in Baan Wat Thong, take time to stroll the tree-lined lanes, and visit Wat Thong, located on the unpaved road directly West of the royal residences. Formerly the temple of the local royal family, it is now the final resting-place of many of it members, and captures the essence of this city which time has eclipsed. An interesting historical aside: inside the sim (ordination hall) of Wat Thong, to the side of the main Buddha image, one will notice a secular looking statue in military garb. This is King Khamsouk, who ruled Champasak during the late 1800s. When the communists took power, they knocked down his statue that had been erected in Pakse, but local followers removed it to his family temple, Wat Thong. Placed as it is, one must wonder to whom the devotees are offering their respects.

Faded grandeur notwithstanding, Baan Wat Thong has a very agreeable ambience. With comfortable accommodations available in the Sala Wat Phou, a restored colonial period hotel, the town serves as an excellent base from which to explore Wat Phu.

Wat Phu, (literally, Mountain Temple) is located on a site which has been sacred to at least three cultures. The Chen La empire venerated the site during the sixth to eighth centuries AD, (A veneration which reportedly placated the spirits with human sacrifices.), and a pre-Angkor Khmer civilisation built most of the present edifices beginning around the ninth century AD. Lastly, the Buddhist Kingdom of Lan Xang converted the Hindu temples into structures honouring their own deity. What appears to have attracted the attention of all of these residents of the region is a uniquely shaped mountain behind the temple, Phu Pasak. The summit of this mountain juts skyward to a narrow precipice, which seemingly called to mind the holy Shiva lingam, or phallus, to the Hindu Khmers. Indeed today, the locals refer to the mountain, colloquially if somewhat irreverently, as Mount Penis. This unique geological formation also somewhat resembles a Buddhist stupa, adding to its mystical significance. Adding to the symbolic power of the site, an underground spring flows from the mouth of a cave near the top of the temple complex. Although it certainly lacks the grandeur of the huge site at Angkor, Wat Phu nonetheless exudes a presence that even those not taken by its architectural significance will find palpable.

Located 9 kilometres (5 miles) south of Baan Wat Thong, Wat Phu begins at river level and rises three levels to reach the foot of the mountain. Outside the complex is a large reservoir, which in times past was the site of boat races and ritual bathing. The bathing (and fishing) continues, somewhat less ritualistically. Continuing into the complex, one sees the remains of palaces built by the rulers of the Champasak kingdom towards the end of their dynasty, from which they viewed the annual festivities held on the full moon of the third lunar month, which continue to the present. An East-West axial promenade passes between two large rectangular ritual bathing ponds and leads to the base of the middle level. At the top of a flight of irregular stone stairs, two large worship pavilions flank the central promenade. Scholars have deduced, based on the deities carved into the stone, that the right hand pavilion was used for the male worshippers, and the left for the women-folk. Currently only the right hand structure is open to visitors. Climbing through the small access door, one can view well preserved Hindu bas-reliefs on the lintels inside the pavilion. Most of the free-standing statuary has been removed or damaged.

Returning to the central promenade, one passes some pavilions whose function remains uncertain, due to their state of disrepair. About 10 metres (33 ft) to the right of the central passageway, one will find a stone yoni, Hinduism's symbolic female sexual organ. A fertility and female well-being symbol, this artefact is constantly covered with offerings of flowers and incense, indicating the power of the ancient Hindu symbols continues among today's Buddhist Lao.

The third level of the temple, which contains the main sanctuary, is approached by a steep flight of irregular stairs, flanked by plumeria trees (dok champa in Lao, the national flower). Large trees and the remains of statuary surround the sanctuary itself. The sanctuary is in a good state of preservation as are the bas-reliefs of the lintels. When this site was a Hindu site of worship, a stone Shiva lingam occupied the central place of veneration, bathed by spring water piped in from the cave to the left and behind the sanctuary. Now, large Buddha images take pride of place, but somehow appear a bit like usurpers, amidst the Hindu lintels and damaged statuary.

The mountain spring is still held in veneration by the Lao, bottles of the water are collected, and heads are held beneath the pipe emitting the spring water for both physical and spiritual refreshment. In the small cave behind the spring worshippers have collected a variety of Buddhist and Hindu religious statuary, including what appears to be a stone Shiva lingam. Behind and to the right of the sanctuary, a stone carving depicts the Hindu trinity of Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. To the right of the sanctuary is a placid wooden Buddhist temple. A winding path leading from behind the temple (a small fee will secure the services of any of the young guide/porters who frequent the sanctuary), leads to two interesting carvings, done, probably by the first major group to venerate the site, the Chen La. One carving is of an elephant, the other a crocodile.

Wat Phu is famous for its boon, or festival, which attracts visitors from throughout Laos and beyond. The festival occurs on the full moon of the third lunar month. The precise dates vary, but usually the festival occurs in February. During the three-day festival, Wat Phu is filled with pilgrims who make offerings at various sites of the temple complex, particularly the sacred yoni and the elephant and crocodile carvings. On the final day of the festival, monks accept alms from the pilgrims and in the evening, a candlelight procession circumambulates the worship pavilions at the lower level of the complex. Far from being a solemn event, the festival is characterised by a myriad of more worldly diversions, such as boat races, cock fighting and kick boxing competitions. In the evenings, popular music and drinking add to the revelry.

Across the river from Wat Phu, another Khmer ruin, Um Muang (also known as Um Tomo) is probably of interest only to serious aficionados of Khmer architecture, due to its serious state of disrepair. A few carved lintels and Shiva lingam are all that remain of this 9th century site. It is a pleasant boat ride from Baan Wat Thong, however, and located in a forest about one kilometre (1/2 mi) North of the nearest village, Baan Nakham Noi.

After the historical and cultural focus of Wat Phu, this region's attractions are a pleasant shift, offering scenic beauty, and a glimpse into the life of Laos' rural population. The Mekong river is at its widest here; during the rainy season it is up to 12 kilometres (8 mi) across. When the waters recede, many small islands emerge. It is from this phenomenon that the region takes its name, which means four thousand islands.

Oliver Hargreave / CPA

Mekong river scene, southern Laos.

One of the larger permanently inhabited islands is Don Khong, located about 120 kilometres (75 miles) downstream from Wat Phu. Taking the public passenger ferry is for the hardy; depending on the passenger and cargo load, as well as intermediate stops made, the trip from Baan Wat Thong can take from seven to nine hours. Charters can be arranged from either Pakse or Baan Wat Thong. The journey can also be made by road, along Route 13 on the east bank of the Mekong, which takes about 3 hours in a public bus from Baan Muang across the river from Baan Wat Thong. Direct buses from Pakse also reach Hat Xai Khun, a riverside village East of Don Khong.

Don Khong offers no sites of great historical significance, but compensates by giving the visitor a glimpse of Southern Lao life on the river. Being the largest and most "developed" island, it has decent accommodation in restored old French villas from the colonial era and even a Chinese restaurant in a breezy pavilion on the river. Don Khong is best explored by bicycle; a reasonable dirt road circumvents the island. Many interesting villages dot the periphery of the island.

Since all overnight visitors will stay in Muang Khong, an exploration logically begins here. Wat Phuang Gaew, located directly behind the Sala Auberge Don Khong, greets visitors with a massive and gaudy stucco Buddha image. Heading North, one will find the oldest temple on the island, Wat Jom Thong, which is need of some restoration work. Interesting village temples can also be found at the Southern tip of the island in Baan Huai and Baan Hang Khong, where the eponymous Wat Hang Khong temple is especially peaceful and attractive. Aside from the temples, Muang Khong is best enjoyed for its pleasant atmosphere and as a staging point for the islands further South.

Located only 15 kilometres (9 miles) by river South of Muang Khong, a one hour trip which passes through a maze of small islands, Don Khone is the site of the Li Phi Falls (officially, though less commonly, known as Taat Somphamit). Also to be visited here are the remains of a 12-kilometre (8 mile) railway built by the French to allow cargo vessels to circumvent the rapids and waterfalls that abound on this section of the Mekong. During low water level periods, larger boats can reach only to Don Det, the island North of Don Khone, and a smaller long tail boat navigates the channel between Don Det and Don Khone. Only basic accommodations are available in this area, so it is best done on a day trip, staging from Don Khong. Any of the hotels in Don Khong can arrange such trips. A final alternative is to make the whole trip from Pakse in style, aboard the French-managed Vat Phou, a steel-hulled, air conditioned cruiser with 12 staterooms, private bathrooms, etc. The company offering this vessel offers fully guided tours of Wat Phu and the Si Phan Don region lasting four days, with continental and Lao cuisine served on board. Bookings can be arranged through any of the travel agencies in Pakse.

Disembarking on Don Khone, one can pause for refreshment at a pleasant riverside café, across the road from which a French hospital from the colonial period is being converted into a small hotel. Turning right on the road in front of the hotel, one passes through the village of Baan Khone, where a few colonial villas are shaded by huge trees. Bearing right where the road forks in the village one will reach the remains of a railway bridge the French built between Don Khone and Don Det. The railway originally ran from the southern end of Don Khone to the northern end of Don Det. Passing beneath the bridge and turning left, one comes upon the remains of an old steam locomotive which once plied this unique railway (the only rail transport ever constructed in Laos) in the early part of this century. Two elderly Lao gentlemen who once served as railway engineers still live within metres of the locomotive's final resting place and will proudly show visitors their certificates in French, honouring their service. Although the locomotive itself is no more than a rusting hulk, the overall atmosphere is powerful. The hospital, villas, and defunct railway all combine to epitomise the audacity and futility of the grand ambitions of la mission civilisatrice.

About a kilometre (1/2 mile) further down what becomes less a road than a path, the Li Phi falls rage over ragged boulders. Although a drop of only several metres, the volume and power of the falls is impressive and the ambience agreeable. A second set of falls is located about 500 metres (1625 ft) further downstream. Fishermen use traps and nets in the pools at the base of the falls.

A unique attraction of Don Khone is a chance to view the unique and endangered Irrawaddy Dolphin. This mammal can survive in both fresh and salt waters, but it is mainly now indigenous to the lower reaches of large Asian rivers, such as the Mekong and Irrawaddy. Held sacred by the Lao, they are not intentionally captured, but are nonetheless trapped and subsequently drown in fishing nets. Seemingly unafraid of humans, thus a joy to observe, they travel in pods of less than ten, and can be observed in the waters near Don Khone. Every source queried has a different opinion on when and where to find them. Ask a local fisherman to guide you to the plaa khaa.

Oliver Hargreave / CPA

Khone Phapeng Falls.

The Phapeng Falls, also known as the Khone Falls are the largest set of waterfalls on the lower Mekong. What they lack in height, they recover in sheer volume. Several of the cascades are visible from a point on the East bank of the Mekong, about 10 kilometres (6 mi) south of the village of Baan Nakasong. From Don Khone or Don Det, one must travel by boat to Baan Nakasong, and proceed south by land. The falls are an impressive sight, and are best viewed from a pavilion located above the falls. Three separate cascades merge at this spot. Fishermen clamber precariously across the raging torrents on bamboo ladders to lay lines, while birds dive through the spray seeking the smaller fry. Phapeng has its share of roasted chicken vendors, with other local delicacies and plenty of cold beer. A lovely spot for a picnic and a great conclusion to this often arduous but certainly rewarding journey through a unique part of Southern Laos.

This region of Laos is known for its temperate climate and unique Mon-Khmer minority peoples, Indeed the name Bolaven means place of the Laven, who are the predominant ethnic group in the region. Other attractions include scenic waterfalls, boat cruises on pristine rivers, and for those so inclined, visits to the Ho Chi Minh trail.

The Bolaven Plateau region spreads over Salavan, Sekong, Champasak and Attapeu provinces. The average altitude of 1200 metres (3900 ft) makes the area suitable for temperate crops. The French introduced the production of coffee, high quality stock of both arabica and robusta strains. Production declined during the war years, but is now experiencing a renaissance. In addition to the Laven minority, other groups include the Katu, Alak, Tahoy and Suay. All of these people follow animist belief systems. The Laven in particular are famed for their hand woven cloth, with unique patterns of beads woven into the fabric. Foot looms are used to produce this cloth, which while not as fine as the work found in the North, certainly has a unique style, looking more Khmer than Thai influenced.

Either Lane Xang Travel or SODETOUR in Pakse offer a variety of guided tours to the Bolaven Plateau, ranging from day trips to 3-4 day itineraries. Prices vary according to the size of the group, as well as the itinerary chosen. Since many of the attractions are located off the main road, and are not sign posted, some sort of guide is recommended, although guides are also available on a day basis in any of the major towns.

A good starting point for an exploration of the region is the Taat Lo Waterfalls, 94 kilometres (58 miles) north east of Pakse. The road is paved throughout, and transit time is no more than two hours. Laven villages can be visited en route. The falls drop only a few metres, but are quite wide and surrounded by lush vegetation. A restaurant at the base of the falls serves excellent French and Lao food. The Taat Lo Resort offers attractive chalets overlooking the falls. Alak, Katu and Suay villages can be found within a few kilometres of the resort. The resort also arranges elephant day treks.

The town of Salawan is located 40 kilometres (25 miles) Northeast of Taat Lo Waterfall. Devastated during the war, the town has been rebuilt and its only charm lies in its splendid isolation. Those interested in investigating the customs of the more obscure Mon Khmer ethic minorities who populate the region, might consider a visit.

A more interesting itinerary, upon leaving the Taat Lo area, would be to take the turn off to Sekong (Route 16), just East of Taat Lo. This two-hour journey passes through verdant coffee plantations with excellent view of the mountains above the plateau to the south-west. Sekong town, like Salawan, has been rebuilt since the war, and has a strong military presence. A decent hotel across from the market has an adjacent restaurant, and a good selection of minority handicrafts is available for sale. Otherwise, the main reason to visit Sekong is to arrange a boat trip down the Se Kong River to Attapeu. This trip takes about seven hours. Although public transport exists, it's best to charter a long tail boat, to allow stops at the many scenic spots along the way, including Taat Hua Khon (Human Head Waterfall), where, during a macabre World War II incident, the Japanese decapitated dozens of Lao partisans and threw the heads into the falls.

Arriving in Attapeu (officially Samakhi Xai, a propagandistic appellation meaning "united people", which, deservedly, has failed to come into use), one notices why the Laos call this their "garden city". All the houses seem to be surrounded by trees and shrubbery, both ornamental and agricultural. Again, strong on rural atmosphere, but without any specific attractions otherwise.

East of Attapeu, one can reach the Ho Chi Minh Trail the Sansai district, one can see abandoned and damaged war materiel, and near the village of Pa-am, an intact Russian Surface to Air missile and launcher, looking sad and incongruous in this rural setting. Although villages have rebuilt, one still sees the crumbling foundations of temples destroyed by the bombing, and the defoliants used have left mainly scrub forests. Overall, the experience is unsettling but worthwhile. Those undertaking this trip should be particularly careful to avoid leaving marked paths, since the concentration of unexploded ordnance (UXO) here is some of the highest in Laos.

Attapeu is literally the end of the line in terms of vehicle travel, so one must double back about 50 kilometres (31 miles) towards Sekong in order to return to Pakse. Here a new road built to service a large hydroelectric project, leads back onto the Bolaven plateau. About 30 kilometres (18 miles) after starting this climb, one arrives at Katamtok Waterfall. After becoming accustomed to the short but wide waterfalls of Southern Laos, this cascade is spectacular in its 100-metre (325 ft) drop. A small pavilion provides a good viewing point, but no trails to the base are discernible, and the route would be precipitous, as well as hazardous due to the possibility of UXO. About two kilometres (1 mi) beyond the Katamtok Waterfall the road crosses a bridge and to the right a small waterfall is visible which would make a pleasant picnic stop.

Leaving the more mountainous regions, and re-emerging onto the plateau, prosperous looking Alak villages are accustomed to visitors and offer handicrafts for sale. Paksong serves as a major market town where the region's farmers sell their crops, notable coffee, to middlemen from Pakse. The morning market is quite animated and filled with interesting minorities who have descended from their home villages.

Beyond Paksong on the way to Pakse, another spectacular waterfall, Taat Fang (also known as Dong Hua Sao), tumbles 120 metres (390 ft), making it the tallest waterfall in Laos. Well-marked trails lead the physically fit 6 kilometres (4 mi) to the base of the falls.

Text copyright © Peter Holmshaw / CPA 2001.

An extended version of this article appears in the APA Compact Guide Laos.

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