Oriente: Cuba's Little-Known East

Eastern Cuba is quite different to the apparently endless sugar fields of Central Cuba, and is in many ways much more interesting. To begin with there are numerous mountain ranges such as the Sierra del Cristal near Holguin, the Sierra de Purial south of Baracoa, and the magnificent Sierra Maestra which dominates the south. Then there's the long Caribbean coast, home to Cuba's second city and major cultural centre after Havana, Santiago de Cuba.

Further off the beaten track there's the isolated and delightful old colonial town of Baracoa, Cuba's oldest European settlement. Dominated by the extraordinary flat-topped mountain El Yunque, and isolated from the rest of the country by high ranges of mountains, Baracoa is proud both of its age and of its distinctive cuisine � the only genuine regional cuisine in Cuba.

Other attractions include Cuba's fourth largest city, Holguin, with its fine late colonial period architecture, and Bayamo � perhaps the most charming provincial capital in Cuba, and revered nationally for its history as a centre of Cuban independence. Oriente is certainly different from the rest of the country. It feels closer to Jamaica and Haiti than to Havana (as indeed it is), and it is home to possibly the best musical rhythms, and certainly the most famous carnival, in the whole of Cuba.

David Henley / CPA

Don't Miss:

Bayamo, which was founded as one of Cuba's earliest European settlements in 1513, is one of the original seven towns founded by the colonial pioneer Diego Velazquez. As such it is of venerable age � but it's also probably the most relaxed and attractive provincial capital in Eastern Cuba. Not that it's a big place � it isn't. With a population of around 120,000 it is both small and laid back � which is of course a major part of the attraction. Unlike neighbouring Las Tunas, however, Bayamo has much to offer in the way of attractions.

The verdant peaks of the Sierra Maestra dominate the landscape to the south, while a new ring road on the Carretera Central skirts the town, leaving the historic town centre free of heavy traffic, though the visitor will see plenty of horse-drawn carriages and even goat traps for children. Life in Bayamo revolves around the extensive main square, Parque Carlos Manuel de Cespedes. There are of course almost as many Parques Cespedes in Cuba as there are busts of Jose Marti � but Bayamo was Cespedes' birthplace and owns a special place in the annals of Cuban patriotism. It's also true that the Cuban national anthem, "La Bayamesa", was written here by Perucho Figueredo, another famous local citizen, during the anti-colonial wars of the 1860s. Figueredo, later captured and executed by the Spanish, urged his people:

Run to battle, people of Bayamo
Let your country proudly observe you
Do not fear a glorious death!
To die for your country is better than to live in chains
To live in chains is to live in insult and to drown in shame
Listen to the bugle calling!
To arms, brave ones, run!

Today, as always, every Cuban regardless of political persuasion, whether in Havana or in Florida � let alone Bayamo � knows and honours these words and the people of Bayamo for their historical role in the anti-colonial struggle.

Tall, shady trees dominate Parque Cespedes, a spotless square � not just swept, but mopped, daily � with a granite column bearing a bronze statue of Cespedes at its centre. Nearby another monument inscribed with the words of La Bayamesa (in Spanish) bears a bust of the anthem's composer, Perucho Figuredo. On the park's north side, next to the recently restored Hotel Royalton, stands the Casa Natal de Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, now a museum. It's beautifully preserved and carefully cared for by curators who clearly feel honoured by their task. Standing right next door the Museo Colonial, which houses colonial period artefacts and the original script of La Bayamesa, is also well worth visiting.

On the east side of the square, in front of the attractive Ayuntamiento or Town Hall, Cespedes proclaimed Cuba's independence. It was also the site of the first Assembly of the Cuban Republic.

A few short steps west of the park is another open square, the Plaza del Himno Nacional, again named for La Bayamesa and dominated by the Catedral de Santisima Salvador. Dating from 1868 (when Bayamo was rebuilt after being destroyed by the fires of war), this splendid building features a mural above the altar showing Cespedes blessing the Cuban national flag. The most interesting part of the church is the Capilla de la Dolorosa, a small chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary on the cathedral's west side. This is the only part of the original building to have survived the destruction of 1868, and today it houses the first flag of the Cuban Republic, sewn by Cespedes' wife. It's easy to see why Bayamo looms large in the Cuban national consciousness!

Taking a Break: The Royalton Hotel is both sylish and well-located, overlooking Parque Cespedes. It has two bars, one set at ground level by the park, providing excellent opportunity to sit, sip, and quietly watch the Bayamese go about their daily business. The second, on the roof, offers fine views across the nearby Cathedral to the distant peaks of the Sierrra Maestra.

Top Tips: Rise early, head southwards out of Parque Cespedes towards General Garcia Walking Street, and you will see another side of Cuban national life � the ordinary people of Bayamo, especially those without dollars, queuing to buy peso snacks for their breakfast. It's not real hardship, but in contrasts strongly with the fare offered at the nearby Hotel Royalton restaurant.

David Henley / CPA

El Cobre

The Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Cobre, located about 21km northwest of Santiago de Cuba on the old Carretera Central to Palma Soriano, is the most sacred Catholic religious site in Cuba and the nation's most popular and revered pilgrimage destination. It also has special significance to the Afro-Caribbean religion Santeria, and in many ways at El Cobre � as throughout Cuba, but especially in the east � the two religions are so closely intertwined as to almost become one.

Cobre means "copper" in Spanish, and it's easy to see where the name originates. El Cobre was the earliest open cast copper mine in the Americas, and great piles of slag are visible in the area, while locals will approach you and try to sell small pieces of discarded low-grade copper ore which is supposedly lucky. But the real story of El Cobre goes back to 1606, when three fishermen sailing in the Bahia de Nipe, on the Atlantic coast, to the north of Santiago, recovered a floating Madonna from the waters. The 30cm tall wooden image was of a mestizo (mixed race) Virgin Mary carrying the infant Christ in her left arm and holding a golden cross in her right hand. At her feet, in Spanish, was the inscription Yo soy la Virgen de la Caridad, or "I am the Virgin of Charity". Legend has it that the image had been floating for one hundred years, having been set adrift by the conquistador Alonso de Ojeda to protect it from the ill intentions of local idolatrous chieftains.

This clearly miraculous figure was brought to El Cobre where the first sanctuary was erected in 1608. Ever since "Cachita" � as the image is popularly known � was installed at El Cobre the people of the copper mines seemed to prosper. As her fame grew, so did her popularity, and in 1916 Pope Benedict 15th proclaimed El Cobre's Virgin of Charity the patron saint of Cuba. The present, grand basilica that houses the virgin was inaugurated on her Saint's Day, September 8, in 1927. Later, on the same day in 1936, her image was taken to Santiago de Cuba and formally crowned. As though to confirm the sanctification, Pope John Paul II performed a second coronation during his famous 1998 visit to Cuba.

The Basilica, which is massive and cream-coloured, looks most impressive from the approach road. Within the arched nave is simple and certainly not overly ornate, but there's no mistaking the devotion of the pilgrims and devotees who crowd around the tiny figure of the Virgin, dressed in a yellow-coloured, gold-encrusted gown and wearing a replica of her crown. The image is housed behind glass on an upper floor behind the main altar where supplicants kneel to seek blessings, cures, or give thanks for prayers already answered.

Tens of thousands of worshippers visit El Cobre every September 8, Catholic and Santeria devotees mingling and mixing both physically and spiritually. It's no coincidence that the Virgin wears yellow � the colour of the Santeria orisha Ochun, the sensual Yoruba (West African) goddess of love, rhythm, dance and rivers. At El Cobre, Cuba's diverse religious traditions come together in the most magical and symbolic way.

Taking a Break: Don't. There are no special restaurants or miradors (viewpoints) serving drinks on the winding road between Santiago and El Cobre, and the return journey is only around 42kms. Visit the basilica and then head back to Santiago to relax.

Top Tips: Unless you're anxious to obtain a souvenir of El Cobre, stay away from the hustlers (who in fact are not particularly pushy or unpleasant) who will try to sell you fragments of ore or shiny pyrites from the copper mines. Religious mementoes are readily available at numerous souvenir shops throughout the small town.

Santiago de Cuba

Cuba's second largest city, with around 450,000 inhabitants, is the country's most important regional centre. An ancient city � it was established in 1514, again by the conquistador Diego de Velazquez, colonial Cuba's great founding father � it has a rich cultural history and intellectual tradition. It's also the first city of the Cuban Revolution; it was here that Fidel Castro mounted his initial attack on the Moncada Barracks in 1953; it was also in Santiago that he eventually declared the triumph of the revolution in 1959. Santiago faces the Caribbean culturally as well as geographically, and is very different to distant Havana. Nevertheless, fascinating and rewarding destination though it undoubtedly is, Santiago remains overshadowed by the much larger and more sophisticated capital, Havana.

The roots of Santiago's rich culture are founded in the cultural diversity of its inhabitants. It's a Cuban melting pot comprising Spanish, French and Afro-Caribbean peoples who have lived side-by-side, influencing each other's music, song, dance, literature and art to the extent that the resulting mix has become a distinctively Santiagan whole. There's no other city in Cuba with quite the joyous rhythm of life of Santiago de Cuba. This is particularly true during the summer months when one festival seems to follow another, the two most significant being the Festival of Caribbean Culture in early July, followed by the famous, two-week-long Grand Carnival during the last two weeks of the same month. During this period carnival dance troupes known as comparsas compete with each other (they practice regularly throughout the year) and the whole city celebrates with a non-stop festival of son, salsa, mambo, conga and chachacha � a veritable explosion of music and dance.

Old Santiago is a warren of narrow streets and alleys sloping gently downhill from Plaza de Marte eastwards to the Bahia de Santiago and the Caribbean Sea. The most important buildings are clustered around Parque Cespedes and include the neo-classical Ayuntamiento or Town Hall, the venerable Casa de Diego de Velazquez (dating from 1522 and said to be the oldest surviving building in Cuba). It now houses the Museo de Ambiente Historico Cubano, featuring period antiques dating from the 16th to 19th centuries; nearby is the appropriately grand Hotel Casa Granda. The square is dominated by Santiago's most important building, the Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion, a five century old church, admittedly frequently restored, which dates back to the time of Diego de Velazquez who is also believed to be entombed � somewhere � here.

Other significant squares in the old city include Plaza de Dolores and Plaza de Marte, both within comfortable walking distance. But Santiago's a sizeable city, and there's plenty to see beyond the historic heart of the city.

David Henley / CPA

Northwest of the city centre, beyond the railway marshalling yards, is the Cementerio Santa Iglesia. Here lie buried many of Santiago's � and Cuba's � finest and bravest heroes, including the imposing hexagonal Mausoleum of the nation's father, Jose Marti; the grave of Tomas Estrada Palma (died 1908), Cuba's first president; and perhaps above all the tomb of the father of Cuban independence, Carlos Manuel de Cespedes. Many of the graves in the cementerio are those of independence fighters killed in the colonial wars of independence against Spain, while more recent revolutionary heroes such as Frank and Jose Pais, victims of the Batista dictatorship, are also interred here.

About 2km east, along the major thoroughfare Paseo de Marti, a small sideroad, Calle Moncada, leads to the former Moncada Barracks, site of Fidel Castro's first attack against Batista in 1953 and now a school. The walls are still riddled, in places, with bullet holes serving as reminders of the great event.

West of Moncada the main highway Avenida Victoriano Garzon leads to Avenida de los Americas and the vast Plaza de la Revolucion � where, for years, Fidel Castro has harangued his people, supporters and silent opponents, for hours on end during his marathon speeches. This is the heart of revolutionary Santiago, dominated by the huge Monumento Maceo, an equestrian statue of the legendary Mulatto general who led the resistance against the Spanish colonial presence in Oriente for many years. There's also a rather unappealing zig-zag grid of huge iron spiked railings more reminiscent of the former Stalinist German Democratic Republic than of tropical Cuba; this is where communist Eastern Europe meets the Caribbean, and the result is visually unappealing and spiritually depressing.

Historic buildings and revolutionary monuments aside, Santiago has its share of more esoteric attractions. For those who can't make it to the Grand Carnival in July, the Museo de Carnaval on Calle Heredia in the heart of the old city that offers displays of carnival dress, floats and associated photographs. Nearby on Bartolome Maso the Museo de Ron or "Museum of Rum" offers tribute to yet another of Cuba's celebrated indulgences. Also associated with rum, or at least the profits derived from this amber liquid, the Museo Bacardi on Calle Aguillera is Santiago's best museum, as well as Cuba's oldest. It was founded in 1899 by rum millionaire Emilio Bacardi Moreau and contains many fine examples of Cuban art, ranging from pre-Columbian Indian artefacts, through memorabilia from Cuba's wars of independence from Spain, to paintings from some of the nation's most distinguished artists. All three museums are within comfortable strolling distance of the central Plaza de Dolores.

Other museums worth visiting may be found further out of town to the east, in the Vista Allegre District beyond Parque Ferreiro. This is too far to walk comfortably, and it's better to take a taxi. Here, on the small side road Calle 5 off Avenida Manduley, may be found the Centro Cultural Africano Fernando Ortiz with an interesting but not outstanding collection of artefacts from Africa. Perhaps more interesting and certainly more unusual, at Manduley Calle 13 is the Casa de las Religiones Populares. This is essentially a museum devoted to the religion of Santeria, and exhibits many interesting and unusual artefacts associated with this Afro-Caribbean cult. Almost next door � to the north, but also on Calle 13 � is the Casa del Caribe, a small institution founded in 1982 to study Caribbean life and culture. This organisation arranges the annual Festival of Caribbean Culture which takes place annually in early July, as well as teaching short courses on aspects of Afro-Cuban music, dance and popular religion.

Taking a Break: It's difficult to beat the laid-back, shady atmosphere of Taberna de Dolores on the south side of Plaza de Dolores. Popular with young Cubans, there's draught beer, live music, good food and a friendly atmosphere � out of doors, but also out of the sun.

Top Tips: Santiago de Cuba is a major fishing port. Good seafood isn't always easy to come by in Cuba, where grilled pork and fried chicken seem to be the standard national dishes � if you get a chance to eat freshly fried fish, or better yet fresh lobster whilst in Santiago, seize it at once!

Baracoa

Relatively few visitors will make it to remote Baracoa near the island's easternmost tip, which is a pity, as this town is truly one of Cuba's most unique and interesting spots. Beside, it isn't nearly as isolated as it once was � until the 1960s, before the building of La Farola ("The Lantern"), an amazing switchback highway that cuts north through the mountainous Sierra de Purial from the Caribbean at Playa de Cajobabo � the only way to visit Baracoa was by sea!

Today Baracoa is a delightful old colonial town of around 50,000 inhabitants. Yet to look at it few might guess that it was the oldest colonial town in Cuba, founded in 1512 by the indefatigable Diego de Velazquez and predating both Havana and nearer Santiago de Cuba. It's possible (and this is strongly claimed by the inhabitants) that this is where Christopher Columbus first made landfall on the island in 1492. His journal describes landing on a headland between two bays on "the most beautiful land man's eyes have ever seen", and he mentions a flat-topped mountain dominating the area. Baracoans agree that this is a reference to El Yunque, "the anvil", a massive, flat-topped peak just northeast of town. The people of Gibara � as well as most historians � would beg to differ, however, and claim that Columbus first made landfall there.

Either way, Baracoa is steeped in history. It has three Spanish forts, all designed to keep English raiders at bay, but none able to do so. Today the main fort, El Castillo de Serboruco (1740), dominates the town and has been converted into one of the most attractive and exclusive hotels in Cuba. There are two other forts. Fuerte Matachin (1802) standing at the southern entrance to town by the Bahia de Miel or "Bay of Honey" is now the Museo Municipal, while Fuerte de la Punta (1803) which once guarded the sourthern entrance to Baracoa's magnificent harbour, the Bahia de Baracoa, is now a restaurant.

There are at least two other major attractions in town. One is the Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion, which dates from 1833. It's located on the southern side of Parque Central, and is in a terrible state of disrepair. Outside, in the park facing the church, is the bust of Hatuey, the celebrated Indian resistance leader burned by the Spanish at this spot more than five centuries ago. Inside is the pride and joy of Baracoa, the Cruz de la Parra, said to have been raised by Columbus in 1492 and now bound in silver and carefully protected in a glass case. Carbon dating does indeed date the cross back to the 15th century, though the wood used is of Cuban and not Spanish origin.

Baracoa's other major attraction is Cuba's only genuine regional cuisine. La cucina Baracoa is spicier than elsewhere in the country and utilises coconut milk, cocoa, annatto seeds to colour rice yellow, plus more garlic and fresh lime than is usual in standard cucina criolla.

Taking a Break: Don't miss Hotel La Rusa by the Malecon or seafront. First established by Magdalena Rovieskuya, a supposedly aristocratic Russian refugee described in Alejo Carpentier's La Consagracion de la Primavera ("The Consecration of Spring"), Errol Flynn, Fidel Castro and Che Guevara are all said to have stayed here. It's a good place to have a drink or a meal overlooking the Bahia de Miel.

Top Tips: Stay in the magnificently situated Hotel El Castillo, formerly El Castillo de Serboruco. How often does one have the opportunity to stay in a luxuriously converted Spanish fortress? The food is good (including la cucina Baracoa), and from the excellent swimming pool there are fine views east, over the city to the Bahia de Miel, north, over the harbour and the Bahia de Baracoa, and west, to the lowering bulk of El Yunque.

At Your Leisure:

Manzanillo

This sleepy fishing port about 65km west of Bayamo feels a long way from anywhere, but is worth a visit � especially when taking the long drive around the Sierra Mastra. Manaznillo lives chiefly off the sea. The waters of the Golfo de Guacanayabo lap the town's all-but-deserted Malecon and are a prime source of crab, shrimp and lobster � a large proportion of Cuba's commercial fishing vessels are based here.

Manzanillo sees almost no tourists, and is poorly provided for in terms of accommodation and restaurants. As a consequence, almost everything is priced in non-convertible pesos. The port is still worth a visit, however, chiefly for the central Parque Cespedes, distinguished by some most unexpected and rather lovely Moorish-style architecture. Best is the central kiosko or bandstand and various other buildings scattered around the square. The architect may have been inspired by thoughts of Seville, but clearly wasn't an Arab � the "Arabic script" on the kiosko isn't real Arabic at all, but still adds an unexpected Andalusian Islamic element to this remote corner of Cuba.

The Malecon is also worth a visit. Well-executed reclining figures in stone decorate the seafront from in apparently random places, and there are peso rum and beer bars where the visitor can sit and gaze across the azure Caribbean.

David Henley / CPA

Holguin

With a population of 250,000, this is Cuba's fourth largest city and a good place to overnight, with adequate hotels and a few passable restaurants. Within the city there are three centrally-located parks, including Parque Cespedes to the north, with early 19th century Iglesia de San Jose at its centre.

Of more interest and just to the south is Parque Calixto Garcia, centred on a statue of General Garcia who liberated Holguin from the Spanish in 1872. The Museo de Historia Provincial will inform the visitor about this and other local history. Also known as the "Parrot Cage" because it was once guarded by Spanish colonial troops clad in elaborate green, yellow and red uniforms, the most important exhibit is a really fine pre-Columbian axe-head carved to resemble an Indian head. It's known as the Hacha de Holguin or "Holguin Axe" and is an important provincial symbol.

Further south still is Parque Peralta, perhaps the most attractive of Holguin's civic squares, dominated by the early 18th century Catderal de San Isidoro and boasting an attractive central kiosko or bandstand where local children sometimes practice ballet dancing.

The countryside around Holguin can be truly lovely, and perhaps the best views of all are to be had from the Mirador de Mayabe, 8km southeast of town. There are restaurant and hotel facilities.

Gibara

The small port of Gibara, about 35km north of Holguin on Cuba's Atlantic coast, is most probably the site of Columbus' first landing on the island � despite the protests of outraged Baracoans. It makes a good side trip from either Holguin or Guardalavaca, perhaps for a seafood meal, a stroll along the Malecon, and a look at the statue of Christopher Columbus on the west bank of the shallow Rio Cacyoquin where it empties into the sea.

The port is chiefly notable for its fine colonial architecture, aggressively good-natured hustlers determined to sell you a black market lobster dinner, and the fine views from the crumbling fort at El Cuartelon, an old Spanish strongpoint on Los Caneyes Hill overlooking the town from the west.

Guardalavaca

This is another of Socialist Cuba's "all in" package resorts, though it is possible to find both independent accommodation and restaurants. There's a long, powdery, white sand beach, warm, attractive seas, and numerous water sports opportunities including snorkelling, scuba diving, deep-sea fishing, windsurfing, sailing and kayaking. Better yet, there's an attractive coral reef just 250m offshore.

The downside � as with most other, similarly exclusive government-run resorts � is that it's a long way from anywhere, and it's expensive (US$40 dollars minimum) to take a taxi to Holguin or Gibara.

David Henley / CPA

Castillo De San Pedro del Morro

This is one of the great sights of Oriente � and if you can arrange to be there around 7.00pm it's also one of the most spectacular. This impressive fortress � generally known as El Morro for short � was built by the Spanish in the mid-17th century to protect the Bahia de Santiago from pirates and, subsequently, from the British. The great bastions and crenellated walls completely dominate the entrance to Santiago harbour from the east, and are in excellent condition. El Morro is generally considered the best-preserved Spanish military fortification in the Caribbean, and is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site.

A tour of the castle involves visits to the dungeons, bastions and batteries, but the highlight has to be each evening at 7pm, when a squad of Cuban soldiers, dressed in the uniform of the independence fighters who liberated the island from Spain, march into the castle with great ceremony. The Cuban flag is raised, a genuine 18th century cannon is loaded, the old-fashioned way, with gunpowder, a coconut fibre missile, and discharged across the bay with a powder fuse. A great cry of Viva Cuba Libre! Or "Long Live Free Cuba" goes up from the soldiers, and the ceremony is over. It's a sight well worth seeing, and strongly evocative of former times.

If you are interested in publishing this article please contact info@cpamedia.com (or use this page) for pricing and additional images. Should you wish simply to quote from the article or to use it for strictly non-commercial purposes please be sure to acknowledge CPAmedia copyright together with a link to our website at www.cpamedia.com.