CPAmedia.com: Ancient ‘Water Towns’ of Zhejiang and Jiangsu

There is a lot to see to the west and northwest of Shanghai, including some of the loveliest countryside in China around Lake Tai, an area rich in traditional ‘Water Towns’ with traditional hump-backed bridges arching across picturesque willow-lined canals.

West of Shanghai an arc of small towns and villages known in Chinese as shui xiang or ‘water villages’ extends from the vicinity of Wuzhen in the south to Changzhou on the Grand canal in the north. The entire area is criss-crossed with waterways of all sizes, as well as dozens of lakes, from Tai Hu, at 870 sq miles (2,250 sq km) the third largest fresh water lake in China, to the cluster of smaller lakes and almost limitless lesser bodies of water south of Yangcheng Lake.

Shanghai is an excellent starting point for exploring these Water Towns, although Suzhou also makes a good alternative base. Mainly they can be visited as day trips, though one advantage of staying overnight is that the group tours which can make exploring – and especially photography – so frustrating during the day, will have left. The atmosphere in the evenings and early mornings is quite different, and for a while it is possible to imagine yourself back in traditional China, particularly if you hire a boat to take you along the narrow back canals and out of town into the surrounding countryside.

Wuzhen

Wuzhen may be three-and-a-half hours by road from Shanghai and more off the beaten track than Zhouzhuang, but it’s only an hour by road from Hangzhou and still gets its share of tourists, almost all of them Chinese. Local authorities claim a 2,000 year history for the town, and they may very well be right – but most of the preserved buildings date from Qing times, while some Ming era structures also remain. Spread over 1.25 miles (2km) of canal, it is divided into six areas. These are the Traditional Workshop District, the Traditional Housing District, the Traditional Culture District, the Traditional Food and Drink District, the Traditional Shopping District (where the locals will be particularly happy to see you), and the Traditional Life and Customs District. Visitors are encouraged to explore these various districts by making an east-west circuit. Clearly, Wuzhen has been well organized, and indeed why not? The people of the Water Towns make a guaranteed and increasingly good living from their historic settlements.

Following the recommended east-west direction for visiting Wuzhen, the visitor starts at Feng Yuang in the east and walks west along Dong Dajie on the north side of the river. Feng Yuang Bridge (Feng Yuang Qiao) is in fact a ‘double bridge’, one of which, Tongji Bridge, crosses the river from east to west, while the other, Renji Bridge, runs from north to south. Both have been restored recently, and together they are extremely photogenic. A short distance further west, in the Traditional Workshop District, there are a row of workshops making local handicrafts for which Wuzhen is well known. These include silk painting, hand-sewing cloth shoes, the manufacture of rattan baskets, making indigo-dyed printed calico cloth, spinning and wood carving. Visitors can enter many of the workshops and try their hand at the particular craft of their choice.

The narrow, stone-paved street continues between two rows of predominantly brown, two-storey buildings housing restaurants, pubs, pawnshops, family homes and souvenir shops, passing a Rice Wine Distillery on the north side of the street – again, visitors are most welcome to enter, sample, and of course purchase this traditional local product called sanbai or ‘three-times white’. Just to the north of Renyi Bridge is a small Cotton Mill used in the manufacture of the indigo-dyed cloth used for curtains and table cloths as well as for gowns and other clothing. Further west the narrow, hump-backed bridges become more frequent until, just before the intersection with Heng Street (Heng Jie), there is a gabled building housing a collection of locally-produced wooden carvings called the Exhibition of Wooden Sculpture. Further west still, beyond Ren Shou Bridge and again on the north side of the street, is Yu Liu Liang Coin Exhibition featuring, as the name suggests, an extensive collection of ancient Chinese coinage.

Right next door is the Former Residence of Mao Dun (Mao Dun Guju), a traditional building dating from the late Qing era that was the family home of Shen Dehong(1896-1981), a well-known Chinese revolutionary writer who used the pen name Mao Dun. A founding member of the Chinese Communist Party and a member of Lu Xun’s League of Left Wing Writers (see p143), he had a long career as a distinguished journalist and published more than 100 short stories and novels. The house is open to the public and has three exhibition rooms featuring ‘Wuzhen, the Hometown of Mao Dun’, ‘The Way of Mao Dun’ and ‘The Renovation of the Former residence of Mao Dun’. There is also a small Mao Dun Museum (Mao Dun Bowuguan) in the former academy where the writer studied as a child.

Just beyond the Han Lin Residence, another traditional Wuzhen house open to the public, is Changxin Street (Chang Xin Jie). A left turn here leads to Ying Jia Bridge and the Fang Lu Pavilion, Wuzhen’s most famous teahouse, named for Lu Yu, patron saint of tea during the Tang Dynasty (618-907). According to legend the teahouse’s owner, by name Lu Tong, was taught the art of tea making by Lu Yu, resulting in the success of the teahouse that continues today. Certainly it’s a fine place to sit and watch the succession of small boats moving along the river, and the stream of pedestrians crossing the Ying Jia Bridge. South of the bridge lies Changfeng Street (Changfeng Jie), another busy traditional thoroughfare that is home to the Hui Yuan Pawnshop and Pawn Museum.

Xitang

Xitang is also in Zhejiang Province, being located near the southern shores of Lake Tai about 56 miles (90km) southwest of Shanghai, making an easy day trip. Until fairly recently it was, perhaps, the quietest and most laid-back of the Water Towns, but then in 2005 an unlikely phenomenon occurred when part of the Hollywood movie Mission Impossible III was filmed here. The town remains just as lovely, but where Tom Cruise and Laurence Fishburne go, it seems mass tourism follows. Certainly the making of the Hollywood blockbuster, which was distributed in China, helped to put Xitang on the map, for better or for worse.

Xitang’s history dates back to the Warring States Period in the 4th and 3rd centuries BC, when it was strategically situated on the borders of Wu and Yue States, earning it the designation ‘Corner of Yue, Base of Wu’. It developed into a prosperous town during the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368-1911), and in its present form consists largely of restored Qing Dynasty housing. In some ways Xitang is the quintessential Water Town, lying on dead flat land and pierced by nine separate small rivers that divide the town into eight sections that are connected by no fewer than 104 bridges, mostly arched, and all dating from Ming and especially Qing Dynasty times.

Like the other Water Towns, the inhabitants of Xitang go about their business – nowadays that means overwhelmingly tourism-related business – along narrow, stone-paved lanes with flagstones polished by the footsteps of centuries. The local authorities claim that there are a total of 122 lanes and roads in the township, the narrowest being a mere 30 inches (80cm) wide. Where Xitang is different – and most attractively so – is that because of the unusually rainy climate, many of these lanes are roofed over, making a series of traditional covered walkways, all strung with the ubiquitous red lanterns associated with the town and which add considerably to its photogenic appeal. Traditionally, each family was responsible for roofing over the area of lane immediately contiguous to their property. These roofs were joined together to make covered corridors, the longest of which is 1,421 yards (1,300m) long. The traditional housing on either side of the lanes is mainly two storey, painted grey or white, and roofed in distinctive black tiles with characteristic curved gables.

Certainly the best way to see Xitang is to wander at random along the narrow covered lanes, crossing on whim from one section of town to the other by one of the many, lovely Arched Bridges. From the apex of any of these you can stand and watch the busy river traffic, mainly small boats carrying vegetables or visitors, drift slowly by in the tranquil waters. The appeal of the scene is considerably enhanced by more red lanterns, hung over the rivers individually or in streams, from the eaves of the houses. These look particularly lovely at night when they are illuminated across the whole town.

Beyond the charm and appeal of the town – which apparently prompted a visiting UNESCO World Heritage official to comment that ‘Xitang is like the melodious and limpid music of a flute; people need to appreciate it with their hearts’ – there are certain individual attractions which bear seeking out. Best-known of these is the celebrated Covered Corridor that runs for nearly three quarters of a mile (1.3km) along the riverside, sheltering locals and visitors alike from both rain and sun, while providing a gorgeous promenade with uninterrupted views of Water Town life. To add to the appeal, there are high-backed benches at strategic points all along the covered walkway for people to sit, watch and reflect. Xitang’s Wangxian Bridge is the oldest and most notable in town, dating from Song Dynasty times (960-1279). According to legend, it is named for a Daoist sage who would stand on the bridge watching for immortal spirits – wang xian means ‘looking for spirits’ in English. Also worth seeking out are Xiyuan Garden, traditionally laid out to integrate flowers and willow trees with the surrounding water and bridges; the unusual Pearl Button Museum where the visitor can watch pearl buttons being hand-crafted; the nearby Fan Museum where hand-held painted fans are displayed, produced and sold; and the Xue Residence, a carefully-restored traditional house that was once the property of a rich merchant in Qing Dynasty times.

When it’s time to take a break, Xitang has many small restaurants and eateries that serve local specialities including glutinous rice dumplings, pork steamed with rice flour and lotus leaves and freshwater crabs from nearby Lake Tai, all best accompanied by locally-produced Jiashan Wine.

Zhouzhuang

Of all the Water Towns, Zhouzhuang, located in Jiangsu Province near the eastern shores of Lake Tai about 31 miles (50km) west of Shanghai, is the most developed and best-known. It’s also far and away the busiest, and getting more so every year – so is best avoided at weekends and on public holidays, when the narrow streets are simply too jam-packed for comfort. Zhouzhuang also likes to style itself the ‘Venice of China’ – some of the boatmen even seem to have taken a leaf out of the Venetian gondalier’s repertoire, and sing to you as they propel you around the canals. In sum, Zhouzhuang is beautiful and evocative of the region’s Ming and Qing past – but it’s also highly commercialized.

Like Xitang, Zhouzhuang dates back to the Warring States period and perhaps even earlier. Historians tell us that it was originally called Zhenfengli, but in 1086 when a devout Buddhist called Zhou Digong donated the settlement to the estate of Quanfu Temple – which still survives to the northwest of town – the name was changed in his honour to Zhouzhuang or ‘Zhou Village’. Old as the town is, little or nothing remains from that distant time; today an estimated 60 percent of the buildings date from the Ming and Qing eras (1368-1911), which is remarkable enough in any case.

Zhouzhuang is surrounded by water – there are lakes on all four sides– and is pierced with canals and waterways that have always provided the traditional means of getting around town. The main axis of the town is a small river running north-south, while the canals tend to run east-west on either side of the river. Visitors can hire a boat to see the back alleways and bridges from the water, or simply wander the narrow lanes exploring. If you make it a day trip from Shanghai or Suzhou, there’s plenty of time to do both, but you will miss the delightful evening when many of the tour buses have departed, and illuminated red lanterns light up the canals. On balance, if you decide to visit Zhouzhuang, the best option is to stay overnight on an ordinary weekday.

Zhouzhuang is generally entered from the north, on foot – a short stroll from the bus station and car park past many small shops selling souvenirs and snacks – watch out for the delicious roasted pig’s trotters called wansanti that are a local speciality. In the northern part of town is Quanfu Temple (Quanfu Si), the town’s patron Buddhist temple, complete with a pagoda, Quanfu Ta, which boasts extravagantly etiolated upturned eaves, somewhat reminiscent of chofa in Thai temple architecture. The walk continues past Zhouzhuang Museum (Zhouzhuang Bowuguan) across a narrow hump-backed bridge to the town’s second temple, Chengxu Daoyuan, which – as the name suggests – is dedicated to Daoism.

A short distance to the east, arching across the river and canals at the centre of town, are the famous Shuang Qiao or ‘Twin Bridges’. Dating from the reign of the Ming Dynasty Wanli Emperor (1572-1620), this composite structure consists of two bridges and has become iconic for Zhouzhuang. Shide Bridge arches east-west across the Nabei River and has a rounded arch, while Yongan Bridge crosses Yinzi Creek and has a square arch. Together they are considered to look like an antique key, and are also called ‘Key Bridge’. In 1984 the American oil millionaire Armand Hammer bought a painting of the bridge by famous artist Chen Yifei which he subsequently presented to China’s then paramount leader Deng Xiaoping (1904-1997); the same painting was chosen for a United Nations postage stamp in 1985 – Zhouzhuang’s fame was made, and the town has never looked back. There are 12 other ancient stone bridges in town, the most notable of which are Fuan Bridge (1365) at the eastern end of Zhongshi Jie, and Zhenfeng Bridge (Ming Dynasty) on Xiwan Jie. Both lie in the western part of town.

In the far south of town Nanhu Gardens (Nanhu Yuan) consist of a series of lovely pagodas sitting on tiny islets directly contiguous with South Lake (Nanhu), while to the east of town, across the Nabei River, are the Shan Residence (1742), a rich merchant’s house with seven courtyards and more than 100 rooms, and the Zhen Residence (1449) with six courtyards and more than 70 rooms. Both are well worth visiting for the gardens, pagodas and antique collections on display. Historic attractions aside, Zhouzhuang is filled with restaurants, cafes and pubs, and is a good place to buy contemporary Chinese art and copies of traditional paintings in the numerous galleries that line the narrow streets.

Tongli

Tongli is one of the larger Water Towns, located on a complex of canals and rivers on the west shore of Tongli Lake ((Tongli Hu) some 50 miles (80km) west of Shanghai, but just 11miles (18km) south of Suzhou. Although less famous than Zhouzhuang, Tongli is also lovely, and – at least at present – rather less crowded with visitors, though the pace has picked up since the mid-1980s when Chinese filmmakers discovered the city. In the intervening years more than 100 films and television dramas have been made here, including a tremendously popular version of the Qing Dynasty classic Hong Lou Meng, the ‘Dream of the Red Chamber’. In typical Water Town fashion, Tongli is built on land that is as flat as a pancake, surrounded by five lakes, and divided into seven separate districts – effectively small islands – by 15 rivers and canals that flow through the area. The Tongli tourism authorities have made a count, and these waterways are crossed by no fewer than 49 ancient bridges, most of them arched, and some real architectural gems.

While both Wuzhen and Zhouzhuang are famed for their double bridges, Tongli seeks to outshine them with – a triple bridge! At San Qiao or ‘Triple Bridge’ in the center of town, three bridges, Taiping Qiao or ‘Great Peace Bridge’, Jili Qiao or ‘Lucky Bridge’, and Chanqing Qiao or ‘Long Celebration Bridge’ stand in such close proximity that they form an almost continuous link around and across three ancient waterways. As with Shuang Qiao ‘Double Bridge’ in Zhouzhuang, they have become iconic for Tongli, but they have also long been reverenced by the citizens of the town, who walk across them for good fortune on auspicious occasions such as weddings and birthdays. Other bridges of significance in Tongli include Siben Qiao or ‘Reflecting Origin Bridge’, the town’s oldest, dating from the Song Dynasty (960-1279), and Dubu Qiao or ‘Single Step Bridge’, the town’s smallest, which is just 5ft (1.5m) long and about 3ft (0.9m) wide.

Tongli is also a town of ancient Chinese architecture – indeed it is estimated that that around 40 percent of the buildings date back to the Ming and Qing periods (1368-1911). Rather like Xitang, they face onto narrow lanes (but without the ubiquitous covered corridors of the latter) or directly onto the canals, which are reached by a short flight of steps from each house permitting residents access to the water for washing clothes in times past, or for access to small rowing boats that scull around the town. The houses tend to be whitewashed, with elegantly carved windows, upturned eaves and black tiled roofs. Some have fine gardens concealed behind anonymous walls; the most celebrated of these is Tuisi Yuan (Retreat and Meditation Garden) which was constructed in 1886, during late Qing times, by an official called Ren Lansheng. It’s a fairly substantial garden, covering an area of 1.65 acres (6,600 sq m), with residential buildings to the west and a lush area of trees, ponds, pavilions and terraces to the east. Shoals of red carp swim through the waters, which are criss-crossed by winding causeways.

Some of the finest residences in town include Gengle Hall (Gengle Tang), built by the Ming Dynasty aristocrat Zhu Xiang, which has more than 40 rooms set around three large courtyards; Chongben Hall (Chongben Tang) which was built by Qian Youqin 1912 and sprawls around four courtyards filled with stone sculptures and finely carved wooden panels; and Jiayin Hall (Jiayin Tang) which dates from 1922 and was once the property of the Tongli scholar Liu Yazi. All are open to the public.

As a Water Town, Tongli’s most unexpected attraction is the Museum of Chinese Sex Culture in Ancient Times (Zhongguo Gudai Xing Wenhua Bowuguan, Wujiang Jie, tel 6332 2973, admission, 8am-5.30pm). Here Professor Liu Dalin, formerly of Shanghai University, has amassed a unique collection of almost 4,000 artefacts relating to the history of erotica and sexual relations in China, ranging from sex toys (including a 4,000 year old ceramic penis with a female head) through instructive figurines showing couples making love that were once discreetly given to new brides, to chastity belts, furniture specially designed to enhance sexual intercourse, and such uniquely Chinese sexual customs as foot-binding.

Luzhi

One of the less well known Water Towns – though still drawing many visitors – Luzhi is located 47 miles (75km) northwest of Shanghai and 16 miles (25km) east of Suzhou. It is at least 1,400 years old, and in times past was known as Puli. Despite its small size, it has a long and distinguished literary tradition, having been home to the 9th century Tang Dynasty poets Lu Guimeng and Pi Rixiu, the famous Ming Dynasty poet Gao Qi (1336-1374), and more recently the novelist and educator Ye Shengtao (1894-1988). Literature aside, Luzhi is noted for its beautiful pastoral scenes and tranquil canals, as well as the distinctive traditional costume worn by its women – embroidered cloth shoes, black cotton trousers, a pale blue cotton blouse and kind of black turban elaborately decorated with red pom-poms and flowers.

Luzhi’s attractions include 41 ancient hump-backed bridges variously dating from Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasty times. Proud locals claim that every bridge is of different design, and like to style their township ‘a museum of ancient Chinese bridges’. The best-known is the Zhengyang Bridge (Zhengyang Qiao), dating from the reign of the Ming Dynasty Wanli Emperor (1572-1620). The largest stone arched bridge in town, it is said to receive the first rays of the morning sun. Certainly it’s a fine vantage point for sitting and reflecting on the relaxing scenes around and the limpid waters flowing below. The Dongmei Bridge (Dongmei Qiao) is also celebrated, both for its unusual structure – it’s said to be completely round, half above the water and half below, though this is difficult for the casual visitor to verify – and for the Buddhist designs that are visible, at least, on the upper half! The best way to see the bridges and their various stone decorations featuring details of flowers, bats, frogs, dragonflies and lotus roots is by boat – you may also see local cormorant fishermen on this pleasant journey along tranquil canals.

First established in 503AD, Baosheng Temple (Baosheng Si) is the most important historical site in town. It reached its zenith during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), when it is said to have had 5,000 halls and 1,000 monks – though the former, at least, must certainly be hyperbole. Inside its venerable cloisters are nine clay luohan (arhat) figures made by the famous 8th century sculptor Yang Huizhi – these are considered national treasures – as well as a carved stone pillar from the Tang Dynasty (618-907), a stone flagpole from the Song (960-1279), and a hall built in Ming times (1368-1644) containing a Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) iron bell. The temple also shelters the Tomb of Tang Dynasty poet Lu Guimeng.

Visitors should also make time to see the Xiao Residence (Xiao Zhai) and Shen Residence (Shen Zhai), both former homes of well-to-do Qing merchants, where local music in a style called Suzhou Pingtan is performed for tourist audiences. The Xiao Residence, dating from 1889, is particularly elegant. Finally, the Wansheng Rice Shop (Wansheng Mihang), built in 1910, contains a display of antique agricultural implements once used locally.

The Grand Canal

China’s Grand Canal (Da Yunhe) is the oldest and longest man-made waterway in the world. Dating in parts from the 5th century BC, it links Beijing with the East China Sea at Hangzhou, winding a north-south path through the provinces of Hebei, Shandong, Jiangsu and Zhejiang. In doing so, it also crosses six major rivers, the Hai, Wei, Huang, Huai, Yangzi and finally, at its mouth at Hangzhou, the Qiantang (p179).

The founding of the Grand Canal is generally attributed to Fu Chai, Duke of Wu – present-day Suzhou – who ordered the construction of a canal to transport soldiers in an attack on the neighbouring state of Qi in 486BC, during the ‘Warring States’ Period. This initial canal was extended and improved under the Sui Dynasty (581-618AD), attaining approximately its current form around 610 – in addition to a westward extension to Luoyang, abandoned after Beijing became the capital of the Yuan Dynasty in 1279. A further major change occurred in the late 13th century, when a new section was cut through difficult hilly terrain in Shandong, considerably shortening the distance between Hangzhou and Beijing, and effectively establishing the route as it is today, with an overall length of 1,115 miles (1,794km).

In 1855 the Huang He or ‘Yellow River’ suffered particularly severe flooding, and changed course, severing the Shandong section of the Grand Canal, which fell into a decline augmented by improvements in oceanic shipping routes and, subsequently, the introduction of railways. Reconstruction did not take place in any meaningful way until after the establishment of the communist People’s Republic in 1949, and even today only the section between Hangzhou and Jining in Shandong Province is navigable.

The main purpose of the Grand Canal in Imperial times was the transport of grain from southern and central China to the capital at Beijing. It was also used to transport other commodities, including luxury goods for use at the Imperial Court, and the towns along the Canal prospered and grew wealthy. At its peak, records show that as many as 8,000 river boats transported between 250,000 and 360,000 tons of grain annually to the capital.

The Grand Canal also served as an important cultural link between north and north China, helping to unify the state and establish a sense of common cultural identity. Qing emperors, notably Kangxi (1661-1722) and Qianlong (1735-1796) used its waters to make inspection tours of the south, and it was also travelled by early European visitors, including Marco Polo (13th century) and Matteo Ricci (16th century – see p121). Some sceptics have raised doubts that Polo ever visited China, but his accounts of Hangzhou (p173) as well as of Suzhou (p206) seem very authentic to most readers, as does his description of the Grand Canal ‘s arched bridges, prosperous trade, and great warehouses.

Today the navigable sections of the Grand Canal handle cargo that neither Marco Polo nor the Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong could possibly have dreamed of. Vast quantities of heavy goods such as sand, gravel, coal, bricks and fuel oil traverse its waters, with the Jianbi locks at the junction with the Yangzi handling 75 million tons a year, and the Li Section in Jiangsu Province scheduled to reach a staggering 100 million tons a year in the near future. The Grand Canal’s founder, Fu Chai, would doubtless have been amazed and, one hopes, more than a little proud.

Zhujiajiao

The nearest Water Town to Shanghai, Zhujiajiao is only 30 miles (47km) from downtown Huangpu, and so draws many, many visitors. Conversely, this very proximity makes it easy to visit for those with limited time. Located on the eastern shores of Dianshan lake (Dianshan Hu), it’s practically a suburb of Shanghai, accessible by bus from Hongqiao Airport in just 45 minutes – and yet, despite the crowds, the traditional atmosphere of the ancient town contrasts sharply indeed with the skyscrapers of 21st century Pudong.

Zhujiajiao, like the other Water Towns, lays claim to an antique history going back 1,700 years. The modern town covers an area of 18 square miles (47sq km), but the ancient town is only just over 1 square mile (2.7 sq km) in size, covering a fan-shaped area astride two small waterways and a larger river. The town reached the zenith of its prosperity under the Ming Dynasty – that is, discounting the modern tourist boom – and under the Qing it was sometimes referred to as ‘a short street with a thousand shops’. Nearly all the surviving ancient town dates from Ming and Qing times (1368-1911), although it has been recently restored.

Water Towns, by definition, require bridges, and Zhujiajiao is no exception, having 36 surviving hump-backed spans. The largest and most famous, Fansheng Bridge (Fansheng Qiao) crosses the Dianpu River in spectacular style, rising to a peak mid-stream on five exquisite arches. On the bridge a stone tablet called ‘Dragon Stone Gate’ is engraved with eight dragons circling encircling a pearl – an old name for the town, no longer in use, was ‘Pearl Stream’ – and at the apex of the bridge are four stone lion guardians. Fansheng means ‘releasing sacrificial animals’ and it has long been the custom for Buddhists to gain merit by releasing fish here. Needless to add, in Zhujiajiao’s new tourist incarnation, the sellers of live fish by the bridge are doing a roaring trade. Another unusual bridge to look out for is wooden Veranda Bridge (Lang Qiao), so named because it is protected by an attractive grey-tiled roof with upturned eaves.

Other points of interest in town include Bei Lu Ancient Street, a 1,100 yard (1km) long thoroughfare lined with restored Ming and Qing buildings that fairly swarms with tourists seeking snacks and souvenirs, and Good Manners Garden (Kezhi Yuan), also known locally as the Ma Family Garden (Majia Yuan) after a former owner, Ma Wenqin. This traditional-style garden on Xijin Street (Xijin Jie) now doubles as an attractive guesthouse.

An extended version of this text may be found in National Geographic Traveler Shanghai (2007).

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