Wat Rampoeng Tapotharam

Part of Ancient Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai, King Mangrai's 'New City', was established in 1296, close by the River Ping to the east, and sheltering in the lee of Doi Suthep to the west. Dominating the largest and most fertile valley in Lan Na, Chiang Mai can be seen as the 'Gift of the Ping'. From its foundation until recent times, the administrative and royal heart of the city remained within the ancient walled city, while artisans quarters developed, and commerce flourished, to the east - between the city ramparts and Tha Phae, the 'raft landing' on the right bank of the River Ping.

The walled city in the east developed as a thriving centre of the Khon Muang, the dominant people of Lan Na, and of the ruling Mangrai Dynasty (1263-1578), while the slopes and summit of Doi Suthep to the west remained the domain of Pu Sae and Yae Sae, former cannibal spirits converted by the Buddha. Their son, Sudeva Rikshi, entered a monastery before becoming a hermit and retiring to live in a cave near the top of the mountain, which subsequently became known as Mount Sudeva, or Doi Suthep, in his honour.

Between the city and the mountain lay and area of sparsely inhabited forest. As 'west' was an auspicious direction associated with Amitabha Buddha, and since Doi Suthep was sacred to both the indigenous Lawa people and the more recently arrived Tai, over a period of time a number of important religious centres were established here, generally devoted to Buddhist meditation practices and retreats, more specifically those associated with monks belonging to Forest Orders. One such was Wat Rampoeng Tapotharam, which continues to flourish today

In 1487 the illustrious King Tilokarat, 9th of the Mangrai monarchs, died, leaving the throne to his grandson, King Yot Chiang Rai (1487-95). According to the Yonok Chronicle, during Yot Chiang Rai's reign, an itinerant monk was wandering through the forest area between Chiang Mai City and Doi Suthep when he saw miraculous rays of light emanating from the ground beneath a large, old tree. On learning of this, King Yot Chiang Rai was curious, and set out on elephant back to investigate, vowing: 'if there are sacred relics to be found, and I am fortunate enough to become a patron of Buddhism, then let the elephant stop where the relics are buried'.

In time the elephant did stop, and a container 'in Chiang Saen style' was unearthed, containing a tooth thought to be that of the Buddha. Yot Chiang Rai venerated the relic and held a great religious celebration at which the tooth 'shone with a radiance like the moon at the start of the lunar month'. It was then placed in a gold creliquary, and installed in a chedi that was constructed at the place where it had been found. This marked the foundation of Wat Rampoeng Tapotharam.

To commemorate these events King Yot Chiang Rai ordered the carving of a stone inscription called sila phak-kham, which survives to the present day. In part it reads: 'On Friday, the third day of the seventh lunar month, in the year 2035 of the Buddhist Era [1492 AD], at 8.20am, a most auspicious time, this monastery was established by the religious and secular authorities of Chiang Mai'.

Since that time Wat Rampoeng - as it is more generally known - has suffered numerous vicissitudes, having been abandoned and re-established on at least one occasion and used as a camp for Japanese soldiers during World War II. In 1974, however, Phrakhru Pipatkanapibarn, the abbot of Wat Muang Mang in Chiang Mai's Haiya District, decided to establish a meditation centre at Wat Rampoeng. One year later he became head of the school and also abbot at the temple, marking a turning point in Wat Rampoeng's fortunes and gradually bringing the meditation centre to international attention.

Located to the south-west of Chiang Mai, beyond Wat Umong, the simplest way to reach Wat Rampoeng from the city centre is by way of Suthep Road. Turn left along the road to Wat Umong, continue down the hill keeping Wat Umong to the right, and at the bottom of the hill turn right. Wat Rampoeng is located on the left just over 3km further on. Visitors to the temple will immediately be conscious that it is an active meditation centre. Those engaged in meditation - male and female, and of many nationalities and ages - are clad in white.

The remarkable chedi of Wat Rampoeng may be found about 100 metres within the temple grounds, sheltered by a grove of trees. It dates from the early 16th century, and resembles a Chinese pagoda. Shaped like a cone, it rises in seven diminishing tiers from a high base, culminating in a slender spire. Niches for Buddha images ring each tier, amounting to 52 in total. Each niche is framed by geometrical columns supporting capitals and capped by a decorated arch that resembles the naga diadem of a northern Thai dancer.

The setting is both subtle and relaxing - the more so because of the reverential atmosphere surrounding the chedi. This is certainly no forgotten relic. Surrounded by a neat wooden fence, access to the chedi perimeter is by two small latched gates. Here, from the early morning hours throughout the day, practitioners of meditation slowly circumambulate the central stupa. Raising first one foot, completing a short step in slow motion, and then gradually transferring the body weight to the other leg, they move around the chedi at a snail's pace, intent on their inner thoughts to the exclusion of all else. Their piety and commitment adds much to the numinous aspect of the place.

Nearby, the newly-repainted, modern viharn also merits attention. Although lacking the antiquarian interest of the ancient chedi, the window and door lintels in Khmer style prompt the admiration of the visitor. The roof is also unusual. Rising in ranked tiers, the various roof levels meet in the centre of the building to form a perfect cruciform structure. The projecting board beneath the eaves, known as the phaeng lae, is carved with the outline of an auspicious white elephant. The overall effect is balanced and pleasing, off-setting the venerable nearby chedi in a most satisfactory way.

Text by Andrew Forbes, images by David Henley. © CPA Media, 2007