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Cha Ma Gu Dao: Ode to the ‘Ancient Tea-Horse Road’

Part of Trade Routes

[Traditional Chinese]

茶馬古道

前面那座山 你是什麼山
過了昌都寺 才能到雅安
巴塘奶茶甜 里塘糌粑香
過了八宿 就到芒康
前面那條江 你是什麼江
過了中甸城 才能到麗江
大理姑娘好 普洱茶葉香
茶馬古道遠 人間到天堂

[Simplified Chinese]

茶马古道

前面那座山 你是什么山
过了昌都寺 才能到雅安
巴塘奶茶甜 里塘糌粑香
过了八宿 就到芒康
前面那条江 你是什么江
过了中甸城 才能到丽江
大理姑娘好 普洱茶叶香
茶马古道远 人间到天堂

The Ancient Tea-Horse Road1

What is the name of that mountain
That mountain that lies ahead?
After we get to Changdu Monastery2
Then we can press on to Ya’an
The butter tea of Batang3 is sweet
The zanba4 of Litang5 so appetizing
Once we’ve reached Baxiu6
We can press on to Mangkang7

What is the name of that river
That river that lies ahead?
After we get to Zhongdian City8
Then we can press on to Lijiang
Oh, my pretty girl9 at Dali
My fragrant tea leaves in Pu’er
The ancient Tea-Horse Road is long indeed
It leads you all the way to paradise

1I am uncertain as to the origin of this ‘ode’, which has no attributed author or date. It is noteworthy that the place-names used are in Chinese and not in Tibetan, so this may have been a song of Han and/or Hui muleteers. Is it a traditional song or poem of the ‘Tea-Horse Road’? Or is it a more modern creation? Please send any information to: info@cpamedia.com

2Changdu is the Chinese name for Chamdo, Tibet’s third largest city. The main monastery in Chamdo is Galdan Champaling.

3Batang is a town in western Sichuan on the old eastern Tea-Horse Road between Ya’an and Markam.

4Zanba is the Chinese name for tsampa, a Tibetan staple comprising roasted barley flour usually mixed and eaten with salty Tibetan butter tea.

5Litang is a town in western Sichuan on the old eastern Tea-Horse Road between Ya’an and Markam.

6Baxiu is the Chinese name for Baxoi in eastern Tibet, on the old western Tea-Horse Road between Markam and Lhasa.

7Mangkang is the Chinese name for Markam in eastern Tibet, an important junction on the former Tea-Horse Road.

8Zhongdian in northwest Yunnan has now been officially renamed ‘Shangri La’ to suit the needs of the Chinese tourism industry.

9Literally ‘best girl’, ‘good woman’.

Part of Trade Routes

Muleteers crossing river in tea-producing area of south Yunnan
Muleteers crossing river in tea-producing area of south Yunnan
Muleteer at Yongning, Yunnan. Peter Goullart, 1930s
Muleteer at Yongning, Yunnan. Peter Goullart, 1930s
'Oh, My pretty one in Dali' - Yi girl at Dali, 1904
'Oh, My pretty one in Dali' - Yi girl at Dali, 1904
Pu'er brick tea. Scored to be broken into eight pieces.  Thomas Voekler, 2007
Pu'er brick tea. Scored to be broken into eight pieces. Thomas Voekler, 2007
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