Hanoi Rising

In the heart of Hanoi stands a gleaming 22-storey building called Hanoi Towers, which was until recently protected by a scarred, 10-metre-high wall topped with broken bottles and barbed wire. The wall was all that remained of the city's prison, once dubbed 'The Hanoi Hilton' by American pilots held there in the sixties and seventies. Then the wall crumbled and the re-birth of this 1000-year-old city was symbolically complete. Vietnam's capital is rising not only physically, with a dozen high-rise projects almost complete, but also in popularity. Every day, new visitors fall under a subtle spell created by the rhythms of the city's street life, its tranquil lakes, leafy boulevards and quaint colonial villas.

The city has seen a lot of changes since its official founding in 1010, when it was established following strict geomantic principles. Though the One Pillar Pagoda and Temple of Literature date back to the 11th century, little else remains of the original city. Attacks by the Mongols in the 13th century, the French in the 19th century and more recently the Americans could have wiped it off the map. But by fate or good fortune, the city still sits on a bend in the Red River, its busy streets ringing picturesque lakes which provide a welcome antidote to the surrounding bustle.

The hub of the city life is Hoan Kiem Lake, which connects the commercial, administrative and residential parts of the city. From early morning, when it is surrounded by tai chi practitioners, to late evening, when people come for a stroll or to enjoy a drink in the cafes, the lakeside is never empty. Locals can often be seen gazing into the depths of the lake, as if absorbed in meditation. In fact they are probably hoping to catch a glimpse of a turtle, of which a few are still said to exist. Legend has it that a golden turtle in this lake once provided one of Vietnam's heroes, named Le Loi, with a sword that flashed like lightning and helped repel a Chinese invasion. A small pagoda in the centre of the lake commemorates the legend. Ngoc Son Temple, approached by a red bridge at the north end of the lake, contains the body of a turtle, claimed to be hundreds of years old, that was found in the lake in 1968.

To the north of Hoan Kiem Lake lies the Old Quarter, a labyrinth of narrow back-streets where craftsmen squat, creating anything from bamboo ladders to marble gravestones, and shopkeepers pass the time eating bowls of noodles, playing cards and chatting. For many visitors, people watching is every bit as interesting as sightseeing, and the Old Quarter in Hanoi gives plenty of scope for both activities. The cluster of tiny shops along each street gives the feeling of a toy town, and there is an intriguing explanation for this. At the time when the quarter was built, taxes were charged according to the width of frontage, so the clever merchants built their premises with narrow fronts, but three or four stories high and several rooms deep to allow for storage and living space.

The area east and south of the lake, often referred to as 'Frenchtown', has a completely different feel, consisting mostly of enormous, shuttered villas overlooking well-tended gardens and sweeping entrance drives. Most of these were built in the late 19th century, and as the French were colonial victors, they were not subject to prohibitive taxes as were the tenants of the Old Quarter. They razed what Vietnamese dwellings existed, and built sturdy houses that reminded them of their homeland. Many have been renovated to their original splendour in recent decades, though others are covered with ivy and moss, their ochre paint flaking and green shutters tilted at an angle. In this area of town are the Opera House and Metropole Hotel, both impressive structures that show the stamp of the French on this city.

Perhaps more than in most cities, a sense of history is essential to appreciate the upheavals that Hanoi has undergone in this century alone. While the Old Quarter and 'Frenchtown' give a sense of the city's age, a visit to Ba Dinh Square, a few blocks east of Hoan Kiem Lake, is necessary to be reminded of the Vietnamese people's long but triumphant battle for independence. This is the only part of town where Vietnamese tourists are easily spotted as they come to pay their respects to Ho Chi Minh, known affectionately as 'Uncle Ho'.

A constant stream of visitors passes through the stark entrance of the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum. They are scrutinised for any disrespectful behaviour (such as hands in pockets or smoking) by watchful guards, then led through the dim inner chamber where spotlights pick out the face and hands of this frail figure who is granted divine status among his people. Beneath towering trees near the mausoleum, two simple rooms of his house on stilts still contain a few items under perspex - a diary and pen, an alarm clock, an ancient radio.

The story of his amazing life, in which he travelled the world under many different pseudonyms before returning to guide his homeland to freedom, is laid out in the Ho Chi Minh Museum. The name Ho Chi Minh means 'Bringer of Light'. Unlike many museums, which are dusty and dowdy, this building, erected in 1990 to commemorate one hundred years since Ho's birth, draws the viewer into a fascinating encounter with the birth of modern Vietnam.

Other museums in town, such as the History Museum and Army Museum, are not as lavishly laid-out but still offer insights into the development of the modern country. There are few explanations in English in the History Museum, but huge maps with arrows showing invasions from land and sea need little comment, especially remembering the bombardment by air that the country suffered during the 60s and 70s. Interestingly, though known by outsiders as the 'Vietnam War', the devastating conflict with the US (though war was never officially declared by the latter) is known to Vietnamese as the 'American War' to distinguish it from other invasions dotted through history.

The recent arrival of tourists to the country has caused the authorities to re-think their previous propagandist display at the Army Museum. Photos of American prisoners-of-war have been removed, and a MiG fighter which once hovered triumphantly over a mass of mangled US hardware has been removed to a separate corner of the site. Such action indicates a tendency, visible around the country, to focus on economic realities rather than Communist dogma. Though the bright red and yellow of the hammer and sickle insignia is still to be seen everywhere, an emblem of a motorbike and mobile phone would appear more fitting to the country's current economic boom.

Just south of Ba Dinh Square, the Temple of Literature transports visitors from the harrowing events of this century into a timeless atmosphere of cloisters, courtyards and dim-lit shrines. The temple is dedicated to Confucius and was once a thriving university where students studied the works of great masters; thus the name. These days it is frequented more by tourists, who may chance upon a group of traditional musicians playing such unusual instruments as a set of bamboo tubes which produce varying tones when hollowed hands are clapped at their mouth.

Certain aspects of Vietnamese culture, such as eating habits and temple architecture, are strongly influenced by Chinese culture, which is not surprising given China's size and proximity. Yet there are other aspects which are truly unique, such as the water puppets. Though puppets are common throughout Asia, there is nowhere else where water is used as the stage to add drama to the actions and to conceal the manipulative devices. Puppets of dragons and lions, fishermen and emperors, churn up the water as their comical antics keep an audience of children and adults giggling throughout the performance, which lasts about an hour and includes a dozen or more sketches. Shows take place every evening.

As might be expected, Hanoi nightlife is not as developed as many other large cities, and still defers to its sister in the south, Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) in terms of its range of clubs and bars. Yet the recent influx of investment dollars is changing that week by week, and several tasteful locations now tempt locals to change their early-to-bed habits. Karaoke has taken the city by storm, while a growing number of sophisticated restaurants such as Nam Phuong, Verandah, Blue Beat and Latino offer anything from shrimp and sugar cane sticks to steak and kidney pie to guacamole. Beer drinkers can choose from many brands at cheap prices, the local 'bia hoi' (draft beer) being a revelation at about 25 cents (US) per glass.

Besides its cosy atmosphere and diverse attractions, Hanoi is ideally situated to visit some of Northern Vietnam's scenic wonders.Halong Bay, just 165 km east of the city, is perhaps the country's most-visited site; thousands of karst islands dot the bay, creating a surreal backdrop to a cruise. At Tam Coc Caves, about 100km south, rowers of bamboo boats use their feet to propel their craft through a karst topography similar to Halong Bay. On the northwest border with China, Sapa is a hilltribe town with a lively market and spectacular views of Mount Fansipan, Vietnam's highest peak at 3143 metres. Given the wealth of attractions both in and around the city, Hanoi seems set to continue rising well into the next millennium.

TRAVEL TIPS

Visas

Visa costs vary from US$50 to US$100 and are good for a month's stay in the country. It is often necessary to apply through an established travel agent.

Getting there

Hanoi is served by major SE Asian carriers - Cathay Pacific, Thai, Singapore - as well as Vietnam Airlines.

Getting around

While walking is the best way to experience Hanoi, hiring a 'cyclo' (3-wheeled bicycle taxi) or a bicycle is useful for wider exploration and gives a taste of the gentle anarchy that rules Vietnamese traffic. Horns beep constantly as occasional cars try to pass motorcycles, which in turn blare at a steady wave of bicycles and cyclos. The cyclists are mostly engrossed in chatting with friends and ignore the electronic bleats. At junctions chaos rules supreme; no right of way is recognized, yet the swarms of vehicles somehow emerge unscathed.

Money and Shopping

There are about 12,000 dong to the US dollar, so a calculator is a definite necesssity for working out prices and a large wallet or purse is useful for carrying huge wads of bills. Fortunately, US dollars are accepted almost everywhere that tourists are likely to go, but exchange rates may not be so good.

Water puppets, silk pyjamas, hilltribe cloth, ceramics and basketware are just a few examples of items which make striking souvenirs. Small, hand-painted watercolours of everyday scenes alsomake cheap and compact gifts.

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