CPA Media

Chiang Mai is famed for its festivals – it's the destination of choice for many Thais eager to witness the Songkran and Loy Kratong parades. Yet arguably the loveliest festival floats of all are those on display at the city's annual Flower Festival, which takes place on the first weekend of February, when the variety of blooming flowers is at its peak.

Clubs, societies and groups from around the city compete to see which can come up with the most original design for and delicate execution of the float, using not only flowers but also rice grains and other natural products to create floral images on the floats. These images include models of local temples, former kings of the area and mythical creatures, all in rich yet natural colours. The decorations completely encase the vehicles, so their drivers can hardly see where they are going and need enthusiastic guidance from their team to negotiate the corners along the route.

Starting around 9 am, the parade moves west from the railway station, crosses Nawarat Bridge and continues down Tha Pae Road to Tha Pae Gate. It then veers south and west again to Suan Buak Haad, a tiny park in the southwest corner of the Old City. The floats then remain on display beside the park for the rest of the weekend.

This would not be considered a real Thai festival without a contestant in the beauty queen competition to crown the splendid shapes and colours of the floats. Several of the splendidly dressed participants carry the famous local parasols, which provide ideal protection from the strong midday sun. Swarms of people, both locals and visitors, line the route, some just for a glimpse, others following to the park. When the floats pause in their progress, onlookers rush forward to snap selfies by the floats with beauty contestants smiling behind them.

In the park, local dignitaries judge the floats, while crowds mill around and vendors take advantage of the event, selling snacks and ice creams, hats and balloons, adding to the atmosphere. Families settle in the shade for a picnic, while pop music blares from loudspeakers. One of the most popular sidelines is to dress up in hilltribe gear for a souvenir photo among the beds of brilliant flowers. Thais from around the country queue up to sample this novel attraction.

While in Chiang Mai at the best time of year, it would be foolish not to take in a few other attractions in this capital of ancient Lanna culture. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, the temple on the hill to the west of the city, is the most popular trip around town, and for good reason. The journey gives a taste of the lush vegetation in the National Park, the temperature is refreshingly cool, and the temple's beauty warrants its reputation.

An added bonus on a clear day (virtually guaranteed in February) is the spectacular view down across the city to the hills on the other side of the valley. Inside the temple, a hushed atmosphere prevails, as Buddhists pay their respects or consult with senior monks about personal problems. Just a few kilometres further up the hill is Phuping Palace, the King's summer residence, with delightful flower gardens open to the public.

For anyone captivated by the aura around old Thai temples, there are endless opportunities to be saturated in these tranquil surroundings. Wat Phra Singh, Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Suan Dok are a few located in and near the old city which are sure to catch the eye for artistic taste. One element that makes Thai temples so welcoming is that they are all lived in and the monks are often very curious to indulge in cultural exchange and language practice with visitors.

One of the most unusual of Thai practices in the eyes of visitors is the early morning alms round of the monks. Yet it is not necessary to be a Buddhist to sense the satisfaction of doing a good deed by adding something to the monks' bowls. Thais feel they are 'making merit' by such actions.

Northerners not only speak a different language to other Thais, but their cuisine is also very distinctive and few visitors leave the city without tasting a complete 'Khan Toke' dinner or at least some local dishes. Some of the most atmospheric restaurants in town are situated on the banks of the Ping River, where the timeless flow of the water and tasteful surroundings create a peaceful atmosphere. Some of the more popular places are The Riverside, The Gallery and Samsen Villa. Local dishes are very spicy with a strong influence from Burma, and most western palates seem to find that a small taste is not enough.

For many the greatest attraction of Chiang Mai is the range of tempting souvenirs to be picked up on the Sunday Walking Street (Ratchadamnoen Road) and at the Night Bazaar on Chang Klan every evening. For evidence of just how much people buy, pay a visit to the main post office near the railway station. Any time of any day, tourists can be seen dragging in parcels as big as themselves and hauling them on to the scales.

After a day of walking with the parade, sightseeing and bargain-hunting, a little entertainment goes down very well, and Chiang Mai is well-equipped to suit all tastes. For those who want to steep themselves in local culture, the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre brings alive many ancient rituals and dances such as the sword dance, formerly used as a preparation for going into battle. Many bars and restaurants also feature live groups, which might play anything from Thai pop to country or jazz, and dozens of night clubs cater for those who feel the day is not done until they have danced away their remaining energy.

Chiang Mai has something to fascinate everybody at any time of year, but for anyone lucky enough to time their visit to coincide with the Flower Festival, the blaze of colour and exotic sights promise magical memories to last a lifetime.

Story by Ron Emmons; Photo by Ron Emmons - CPA Media